Hussein Chalayan
Establishing his own label in 1994, Hussein Chalayan (b. 1970, Nicosia) is known for his engaged and poetic approach to fashion. Combining new techniques with traditional craftsmanship, his collections blur the boundaries between art, architecture and design. The installation Afterwords (2000), is one of his most emblematic designs, linking the worlds of fashion and art. This piece, in which living-room furniture is transformed into clothing and accessories, draws on the childhood memories of the designer. As a Turkish Cypriot who was raised in Cyprus and in the UK, Chalayan refers to the plight of refugees of the Kosovo War (1998–9) who were forced to flee suddenly, taking their possessions with them. The film shows the final runway scene of his Autumn–Winter 2000 collection revealing the transformation of the furniture – the seat covers becoming dresses and the coffee table a skirt. The Ambimorphous dress shown at his Autumn–Winter 2002 show collages various richly decorated ethnic fabrics. It is part of a series of dresses which, viewed one after another, gradually evolve from traditional Turkish attire to a Western-style black dress, illustrating the interchange between cultures.
Artworks
Hussein Chalayan Afterwords, 2000 Collection Femme Automne-Hiver 2000
Vêtements-housses amovibles, chaises-valises, fauteuils-valises, jupe-table basse, objets
Coton, acajou, métal, cuir
22 photographies couleur
Film de Marcus Tomlinson (défilé au Sadler’s Wells Theater, Londres, 16 février 2000)
Couleur, son, 1 min 33 sec
Collection Mudam Luxembourg
Acquisition 2000
© Photo : Luc Hayes/Design Museum, London
Hussein Chalayan Medea, 2002 Collection Printemps-Été 2002
Robe
Coton, soie
Collection Mudam Luxembourg
Acquisition 2003
© Photo : Hussein Chalayan
Hussein Chalayan Ambimorphous, 2002–2003 Collection Femme Automne-Hiver 2002–2003
Robe, manches vertes, chapeau, châle, chaussettes, chaussures
Laine, cuir, coton, acrylique, métal, matériaux divers
Collection Mudam Luxembourg
Acquisition 2003
© Photo : Hussein Chalayan
Hussein Chalayan Manifest Destiny, 2003 Collection Femme Printemps-Été 2003
Robe
Coton, lycra
Collection Mudam Luxembourg
Acquisition 2003
© Photo : Hussein Chalayan
Hussein Chalayan Kingship Journeys, 2003–2004 Collection Femme Automne-Hiver 2003–2004
Robe
Coton
Collection Mudam Luxembourg
Acquisition 2003
© Photo : Hussein Chalayan
Hussein Chalayan Temporal Meditations, 2004 Collection Printemps-Eté 2004
Robe coton
Collection Mudam Luxembourg
Acquisition 2003
© Photo : Hussein Chalayan
Hussein Chalayan Anaesthetics, 2004 Vidéo couleur, son
22 min 22 sec
Collection Mudam Luxembourg
Acquisition 2004
© Photogrammes : Mudam Luxembourg
Hussein Chalayan Anthropology of Solitude, 2004–2005 Collection Femme Automne-Hiver 2004-2005
Robe
Coton, broderie
Collection Mudam Luxembourg
Acquisition 2003
© Photo : Hussein Chalayan