Hussein Chalayan

Establishing his own label in 1994, Hussein Chalayan (b. 1970, Nicosia) is known for his engaged and poetic approach to fashion. Combining new techniques with traditional craftsmanship, his collections blur the boundaries between art, architecture and design. The installation Afterwords (2000), is one of his most emblematic designs, linking the worlds of fashion and art. This piece, in which living-room furniture is transformed into clothing and accessories, draws on the childhood memories of the designer. As a Turkish Cypriot who was raised in Cyprus and in the UK, Chalayan refers to the plight of refugees of the Kosovo War (1998–9) who were forced to flee suddenly, taking their possessions with them. The film shows the final runway scene of his Autumn–Winter 2000 collection revealing the transformation of the furniture – the seat covers becoming dresses and the coffee table a skirt. The Ambimorphous dress shown at his Autumn–Winter 2002 show collages various richly decorated ethnic fabrics. It is part of a series of dresses which, viewed one after another, gradually evolve from traditional Turkish attire to a Western-style black dress, illustrating the interchange between cultures.