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Hussein Chalayan

Establishing his own label in 1994, Hussein Chalayan (b. 1970, Nicosia) is known for his engaged and poetic approach to fashion. Combining new techniques with traditional craftsmanship, his collections blur the boundaries between art, architecture and design. The installation Afterwords (2000), is one of his most emblematic designs, linking the worlds of fashion and art. This piece, in which living-room furniture is transformed into clothing and accessories, draws on the childhood memories of the designer. As a Turkish Cypriot who was raised in Cyprus and in the UK, Chalayan refers to the plight of refugees of the Kosovo War (1998–9) who were forced to flee suddenly, taking their possessions with them. The film shows the final runway scene of his Autumn–Winter 2000 collection revealing the transformation of the furniture – the seat covers becoming dresses and the coffee table a skirt. The Ambimorphous dress shown at his Autumn–Winter 2002 show collages various richly decorated ethnic fabrics. It is part of a series of dresses which, viewed one after another, gradually evolve from traditional Turkish attire to a Western-style black dress, illustrating the interchange between cultures.

Artworks

  1. Hussein Chalayan Afterwords, 2000

    Collection Femme Automne-Hiver 2000
    Vêtements-housses amovibles, chaises-valises, fauteuils-valises, jupe-table basse, objets
    Coton, acajou, métal, cuir
    22 photographies couleur
    Film de Marcus Tomlinson (défilé au Sadler’s Wells Theater, Londres, 16 février 2000)
    Couleur, son, 1 min 33 sec
    Collection Mudam Luxembourg
    Acquisition 2000
    © Photo : Luc Hayes/Design Museum, London

  1. Hussein Chalayan Medea, 2002

    Collection Printemps-Été 2002
    Robe
    Coton, soie
    Collection Mudam Luxembourg
    Acquisition 2003
    © Photo : Hussein Chalayan

  1. Hussein Chalayan Ambimorphous, 2002–2003

    Collection Femme Automne-Hiver 2002–2003
    Robe, manches vertes, chapeau, châle, chaussettes, chaussures
    Laine, cuir, coton, acrylique, métal, matériaux divers
    Collection Mudam Luxembourg
    Acquisition 2003
    © Photo : Hussein Chalayan

  1. Hussein Chalayan Manifest Destiny, 2003

    Collection Femme Printemps-Été 2003
    Robe
    Coton, lycra
    Collection Mudam Luxembourg
    Acquisition 2003
    © Photo : Hussein Chalayan

  1. Hussein Chalayan Kingship Journeys, 2003–2004

    Collection Femme Automne-Hiver 2003–2004
    Robe
    Coton
    Collection Mudam Luxembourg
    Acquisition 2003
    © Photo : Hussein Chalayan

  1. Hussein Chalayan Temporal Meditations, 2004

    Collection Printemps-Eté 2004
    Robe coton
    Collection Mudam Luxembourg
    Acquisition 2003
    © Photo : Hussein Chalayan

  1. Hussein Chalayan Anaesthetics, 2004

    Vidéo couleur, son
    22 min 22 sec
    Collection Mudam Luxembourg
    Acquisition 2004
    © Photogrammes : Mudam Luxembourg

  1. Hussein Chalayan Anthropology of Solitude, 2004–2005

    Collection Femme Automne-Hiver 2004-2005
    Robe
    Coton, broderie
    Collection Mudam Luxembourg
    Acquisition 2003
    © Photo : Hussein Chalayan

The most important collection of contemporary art in Luxembourg Explore the Mudam Collection