Helmut Lang

Helmut Lang (b. 1956, Vienna) opened his first fashion store at the age of twenty-three. He went on to create the label that bears his name in Paris in 1986. In 1997 he left for New York. There, his fashion shows – which, in keeping with his reputation for austerity, he called ‘working sessions’ – were received with great acclaim. Lang’s company was acquired by the Prada Group in 2004, and a year later he decided to leave his post as artistic director and has since left the fashion world entirely. An innovator in many areas, in 1998 he launched his autumn collection online, a statement of his inclusive, forward-thinking approach. Men and women were seen together, to walk in designs that represented a stripped-back minimalist style. Lang’s work is characterised by a streamlined and androgynous look, combined with multiple layers in sober tones. Utilising both high-tech fabrics (including thermochromic textiles) and unconventional materials (like rubber and metallic fabrics), he blends sports clothing with evening wear and dinner jackets with tracksuits. Collapsing the boundaries between popular and high culture, combining street style with luxury clothing, he has left a lasting impression on the world of fashion and today continues to exercise a decisive influence on many designers.